Tobias Granath - a Chamonix photo diary
A Chamonix Photo Diary

Bohuslän
Posted: 05-08-2010 00:00 in category Rock Climbing

Häller, Bohuslän.

Since one week I'm back in sweden. I spent the beginning of this week climbing in Bouhuslän. We climbed beautiful lines such as "Villskudd", "Mallorol", "Prismaster" etc.
I will return to this fantastic place next week.

Tomorrow I'm going to Utby/Fjällbo, wellknowned crags not far away from Gothenburg.

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Chamonix rock-climbing
Posted: 26-07-2010 00:00 in category Rock Climbing

Here are some photos from Climbs I have done this month. I will put up more photos and beta from the routes soon. Enjoy!


2010/07/04 - Aiguille du Peigne, Eperon des Minettes


2010/07/05 - Aiguille du Peigne, les Lepidopteres


2010/07/06 - Aiguille L'M, NNE ridge


2010/07/07 - Eperon des Cosmiques, Voie Rebuffat


2010/07/09 - Aiguille du Blatiere, Nabot Leon


2010/07/10 - Pyramide du Tacul, Arete Est


2010/07/12 - Aiguille du L'M, voie Couzy


2010/07/13 - Aiguille du Pouce, voie des Francais


2010/07/15 - Pointe de Bayere, Eperon West


2010/07/16 - Trident du Tacul, voie Lepiney


2010/07/19 - Dent du Geant, normal route


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Aid Climbing
Posted: 28-05-2010 00:00 in category Aid Climbing

Climbing Nostradamus, grade A2, Välaberget, Jämtland. My first aid pitch ever!

Last week I finished a three day aid-climbing course with Pierre Olsson. Pierre is a great authority in aid/bigwall cimbing in Sweden with over 50 climbed bigwalls (8 of them were solo ascents). A resume of his climbing cv: El Capitan 20times, Trollväggen, Norway, Expedition to Shipton Spire Karakoram, American Direct on Petite Dru in Chamonix, Fisher Towers in Zion National park. Pierre is also a strong speed and free solo climber. He knows this game! He know how to stack Pitons, use skyhooks, nail RURP's and birdbeaks etc. etc.
Thanks Pierre for a great course!


Two birdbeaks equalized with a screamer. Pierre is very enthusiastic!


The best book on the subject. Long and Middendorf’s “Big Walls”.

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Sylarna - Skitouring week
Posted: 30-03-2010 00:00 in category Ski-touring

I’m back after one week of ski-touring in Sylarna, Jämtland. We had really good week with good snow and interesting skiing.

Sylarna is a small but exciting mountainrange with three peaks over 1700m, the peaks give approximately 700-750 feet vertical drop skiing in all directions. You can reach any skiing in the area from Sylarnas Mountain Station(cozy and relaxing refuge).

Here are some of the photos of the week. There will be more pictures and more information about the different skitouring routes in Sylarna shortly.


Fantastic powder the first two days. Here at "Martins åk", Djävulspinaklarna.


Day three. Probably a first descent down a narrow shute at "Pyramiden". Pretty extreme conditions, super windy and totally whiteout.


Day six. The classic Sylarna traverse in perfect conditions! This traverse takes you around all the highest peaks in Sylarna mountainrange.


Sylarna traverse. Climbing tempelpinacklarna at "Storsola", the highest peak in Jämtland.


Finishing the Sylarna traverse with a descent of "Håkans ränna", 45˚-50˚, Lillsylen. More information about this traverse will be updated later.


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Ice climbing in Chamonix & Cogne
Posted: 09-03-2010 00:00 in category Ice-climbing

Lillaz gully II.4.M4+, Cogne Italy.

It has been a long time since my last blog-update but here is a short review of what I’ve done. During January and February I spent four weeks of ice-climbing and skiing in and around Chamonix including six days in Cogne, Italy. Ice-climbing conditions were great!

I’m Back in Sweden since a couple of weeks now and the weather conditions here are still quite hard. The spring hasn’t arrived yet… We have had some long periods of over -30˚ degrees (-37˚ as coldest). Go freeriding or skitouring in this kind of conditions is not really my style. Anyway, happy that the ice is fat and the ice-climbing season will be long!

Next week I’m looking forward to do six days of skitouring in Sylarna, Jämtland. I will put up more info about this trip soon. Hope for a little bit milder weather then...

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Finally winter in Jämtland
Posted: 23-12-2009 00:00 in category Ice-climbing

Last week we had temperatures down to -34 degrees in Offerdal, Jämtland. The snow arrived as well so I believe you can say that the winter is here to stay now. Finally! The icefalls are in good conditions too, I spent two days of climbing last week at Rise and Västerberg. Now there’s no turning back!
Merry Christmas to you all!


Snowstorm at Rise 14dec...


Clear and cold(-23) at Västerberg 17dec.


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Ice is nice!
Posted: 10-12-2009 00:00 in category Ice-climbing

Clogging up an easy line at Bärfisen, Västerberg Offerdal...

The autumn in Jämtland has been very mild. No ice climbing until…now!!! Today I went to Västerberg Offerdal, not optimal conditions but climbable. The weather forecast for next week promise cold temperatures so hopefully we will get good thick ice..?


Rise Offerdal, 2 December. Beautiful weather but lots of running water and not thick enough…


Kläppe Offerdal, 7 December. Soon, soon!


Västerberg Offerdal, 10 December. Sometimes hollow and a bit weird ice but climbable!

Looking forward for next week!
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BRANT magazine
Posted: 24-11-2009 00:00 in category Media

Aiguille du Plan North face, TD+, 45°-55°.

Now you can read about our North face ski descent of Aiguille du Plan in the latest issue of the Swedish skiing magazine "BRANT".


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Soon winter...
Posted: 16-11-2009 00:00 in category Ski-touring

Åreskutan 1420m.

It's always nice to go skiing after a long summer and autumn. Today I made 750vertical drops together with my dog Siri. It will hopefully be more skiing later this week.

For those who doesn't know my new life situation here is a short summary; I quite hockey and will for now on go 100% for skiing and climbing. I moved with my family to Offerdal Sweden, not far from Åre skiresort. I’m looking forward to be able to climb and ski all year around from now on. One of my goals is to start the Swedish UIAGM guide program in 2012. You will be able to read more about projects and future later on the “About” section.

By the way, the photos from Matterhorn, Moine etc are now updated. Go to "Mountaineering".

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Matterhorn and more...
Posted: 11-11-2009 00:00 in category Mountaineering

Summit of Matterhorn 4478m.

Had some really nice automn climbing in the alps last week. Did the Petits Charmoz traverse, climbed the South ridge of Aiguille du Moine and the Lion ridge of Matterhorn within a couple of days.


Climbing the ridge of Pic Tyndall 4241m. Dent d'Herens 4171m behind.


Climbing the South ridge of Aiguille du Moine 3412m in perfcect automn conditions.

More photos will be updated soon!
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