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Tobias Granath

Aiguille du Midi – Frendo spur

Chamonix

Frendo spur on the North face of Aiguille du Midi is a great route with varied climbing on both rock and ice. The climb is very accessible with help from the Midi cable car and an overnight stay at the Refuge Plan de l’Aiguille the day before makes the climb even more convenient.

However, the climb is 1500m in total and contains 1200m of technical climbing from bergschrund to summit so excellent fitness and climbing skills are required.

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Content

Frendo Spur is a climb for the modern alpinist who like the effectiveness you get with help from the Midi cable car. When conditions is right you can even do this route in one day by taking the first cabin from Chamonix in the morning. True “Chamonix style” way of doing it. Off course, you have to be really fit and prepared to do this. The rock climbing involves pitches of grade 5. Later, little bit higher up the wall, you will climb ice up to grade WI3+.The climbing on Frendo is hight quality, enjoyable and varied. A superb big route without a difficult descent which make the route less serious on the whole. You’re back easy by the cable car in the afternoon.

Program

Here’s a example of a two day program.

DAY 1

Preparing equipment and packing. Warm up day on Aiguille du Peigne. Sleeping in Refuge Plan de l’Aiguille.

DAY 2

We eat breakfast early in the morning and we begin our climb with head torches. The climb takes about 6 hours. We descent by the Aiguille du Midi Cable car back to Chamonix.

Extended Program

Together we discuss the need for extra days before or after the climb of Frendo spur. Ad training and acclimatization days before the ascent or extra days after the summit. This climb can be combined with other great technical climbs in the area such as:

  • Aiguille du Chardonnet, Migot spur
  • Triangle du Tacul, North face
  • Mont Maudit, Küffner ridge

We are happy to arrange this kind of climbs from mid June to end of September. 

Check if we have this activity already planned in the booking calendar, if not make a request and we will get back to you soon!

LEVEL REQUIRED

Frendo Spur on the NF of Aiguille du Midi requires excellent fitness, rock climbing skills and ice-climbing skills. Previous experiences from alpine climbing in grade AD-TD.

GUIDE/CLIENT RATIO

Max 1:1

LENGTH

Minimum 2days

PERIOD

Mid June to end of September

ASSURANCE

The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.

PRICE

2 day program: 1250CHF

Please feel free to make a request for further info about extended program.

Guide fee depends on
  • Type of activity and where
  • Course seriousness and difficulty
  • Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
  • If going alone or in a bigger group
  • If booking a single day or several days
  • High season or low season

NOTE

Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.)
The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.

Frendo spur equipment list

Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
  • Technical crampons
  • Harness
  • Technical ice-axes
  • Helmet
  • Summer mountain boots

OTHER EQUIPMENT
  • Backpack 25 liters
  • Head torsch & spare batteries
  • Warm hat
  • Warm jacket
  • Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
  • Jacket (wind and waterproof)
  • Trousers (wind and waterproof)
  • Gaiters
  • Thin and warm gloves
  • Sunglasses

  • Water bottle 1 liter
  • Thermos
  • Snacks, Bars
  • Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
  • Sunscreen
  • Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
  • Sleeping sheet for the huts