Dent Blanche 4357m high, has the shape of a pyramid with four distinct ridges. The normal route by the South ridge is a technical demanding climb that takes about four to five hours to climb from hut to summit. From the ridge during early sun rise the view over Monte Rosa massif and Matterhorn North face are breathtaking.
Depending on previous experience and ambition we design a Dent Blanche ascent that fits your wishes and you as a climber.
Dent Blanche is mountain for the purist. The first day involves 1700m hike up to the hut, no cable cars. The hike starts from the small village Ferpècle at the end of the scenic Valley d’Hérens. Second day we rope up direct from the hut and climb 850m of steep rock, snow and mixed terrain byt the South ridge. Highlight moment is the sections with steep airy rock climbing high up on the mountain. Magic happens when sun rises and the first light hits the Matterhorn.
Standard program for intermediate climbers consists three days of acclimatization and preparation training, then three days for summit climbing. However, for experienced climbers that can manage their own acclimatization and preparation we offer a three day program for the summit.
Preparing equipment and packing. Training day on Kleines Matterhorn, traverse of Breithorn or ascent of Castor and Pollux.
Summit days. The ascent starts with a 5 hour walk up to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche, 3507m. We eat breakfast early in the morning and we begin our climb with head torches towards the summit. The ascent by the South ridge takes about 4-5 hours. In the afternoon we are back in down in the valley.
Together we discuss the need for extra days before or after the ascent of Dent Blanche. Ad training and acclimatization days before the ascent or extra days for the summit. The ascent of Dent Blanche can also be combined with other great climbs such as:
- Matterhorn, 4476m
- Eiger, 3970m
- Dufourspitze, 4634m
- Weisshorn, 4506m
- Aiguille Verte, 4122m
- Dent d’Hérens, 4171m
We are happy to arrange Dent Blanche ascents from mid June to beginning of October.
Check if we have this activity already planned in the booking calendar, if not make a request and we will get back to you soon!
Very good fitness. Dent Blanche requires rock climbing skills and previous experiences from alpine climbing in grade AD above 4000m.
Mid June to beginning of October
The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.
3 day program: 1650CHF/person
For extended programs please contact us for further information
Guide fee depends on
- Type of activity and where
- Course seriousness and difficulty
- Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
- If going alone or in a bigger group
- If booking a single day or several days
- High season or low season
Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.)
The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.
Dent Blanche equipment list
Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions and choice of route. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.
- Mountain boots
- Trekking poles
- Backpack 25 liters
- Headlamp & spare batteries
- Warm hat & sunhat
- Warm jacket
- Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
- Jacket (wind and waterproof)
- Trousers (wind and waterproof)
- Thin and warm gloves
- Ski-googles and sunglasses
- Water bottle 1 liter
- Snacks, Bars
- Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
- Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
- Sleeping sheet for the huts