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Aiguille du Chardonnet

Chamonix

Aiguille du Chardonnet 3824m, is a beautiful peak with many different interesting routes to the summit. We chose route depending on conditions and personal preferences. If you are fit and know the fundamentals of mountaineering, this climb is the next step in your mountaineer career.

There are two classic routes to the summit with different atmosphere which both are worthwhile climbs, the steep North face by the Migot spur or the elegant Forbes ridge.

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  • When
  • Info
  • Equipment

Content

This climb suits the prepared and motivated alpinist who wants to take a step forward according to difficulty and route length. The climb involves steep ice, mixed and rock climbing. Moreover, the descent is steep and difficult. The North face has a little bit of “Grand Course” feel while the Forbes ridge is very significant for proper AD alpine ridge climbing in the alps. A highlight moment is when the sun rises over the route. Later on the summit you get rewarded with 360 degree view over the Mont Blanc massif and the impressive North walls of Aiguille Verte, Droites and Les Courtes.

Program

Here’s a example of a two day program.

DAY 1

Walking up to Refuge Albert Premier and spending the night there.

DAY 2

We eat breakfast at around 02.00 AM and we begin our climb with head torches. The climb takes about 8 hours. We descent by the West face and are back to Chamonix at lunch time.

Extended Program

Together we discuss the need for extra days before or after the climb Aiguille du Chardonnet. Ad training and acclimatization days before the ascent or extra days after the summit. This climb can be combined with other great technical climbs in the area such as:

  • Aiguille d’Argentière, Flèche Rousse ridge
  • Aiguille Dorées, traverse
  • Aiguille Rochefort, Rochefort ridge
  • Aiguille du Plan, Midi-Plan traverse

We are happy to arrange this kind of climbs from mid June to end of September. 

Check if we have this activity already planned in the booking calendar, if not make a request and we will get back to you soon!

LEVEL REQUIRED

Aigulle du Chardonnet requires excellent fitness, fundamental rock climbing and ice-climbing skills. Previous experiences from alpine climbs in grade AD.

GUIDE/CLIENT RATIO

Max 1:1

LENGTH

Minimum 2days

PERIOD

Mid June to end of September

ASSURANCE

The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.

PRICE

2 day program: 1250CHF

Please make a request for further info about extended program.

Guide fee depends on
  • Type of activity and where
  • Course seriousness and difficulty
  • Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
  • If going alone or in a bigger group
  • If booking a single day or several days
  • High season or low season

NOTE

Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.)
The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.

Chardonnet equipment list

Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions and choice of route. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
  • Technical crampons
  • Harness
  • Technical ice-axes
  • Helmet
  • Summer mountain boots

OTHER EQUIPMENT
  • Backpack 25 liters
  • Head torsch & spare batteries
  • Warm hat
  • Warm jacket
  • Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
  • Jacket (wind and waterproof)
  • Trousers (wind and waterproof)
  • Gaiters
  • Thin and warm gloves
  • Sunglasses

  • Water bottle 1 liter
  • Thermos
  • Snacks, Bars
  • Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
  • Sunscreen
  • Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
  • Sleeping sheet for the huts