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Tobias Granath

Monte Rosa tour

Zermatt

The Dufourspitze 4634m, is the second highest summit in the alps. The normal route by the West ridge is not technical hard but long and strenuous. From the summit you get rewarded by fantastic panorama view over all the sourranding 4000m peaks.

Depending on previous experience and ambition we design a Dufourspitze ascent that fits your wishes and you as a climber.

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Content

We can climb Dufourspitze and the surrounding 4000m summits in the Monte Rosa massif in different ways depending on conditions, group size and desired difficulty. The climbing is easy to moderate and physical strenuous. If we chose to traverse from Kleines Matterhorn you have the possibility to reach more than fifteen 4000m summits. The highest summit in the Monte Rosa massif, the Dufourspitze is 4634m high and the second highest peak in the alps.

Program Dufourspitze, normal route

Standard program for beginners and intermediate climbers consists three days of acclimatization and preparation training, then three days for summit climbing. See the Italien high level route for a suggested extended program. However, for experienced climbers who can manage their own acclimatization and preparation we offer a three day program for the summit.

DAY 1

Preparing equipment and packing. Training day on Kleines Matterhorn and ascent of Breithorn, 4164m.

DAY 2–3

Summit days. The ascent starts with a four hour walk/climb up to the Monterosa hut. We eat breakfast after midnight and then we begin our climb towards the top. The ascent by the normal routes takes about 5–6 hours. In the afternoon we are back in Zermatt.

Italien High level route aka Spaghetti tour

The ascent of Dufourspitze can be combined with so many as sixteen 4000m peaks with a five day round tour starting from Kleines Matterhorn and ending in Zermatt sleeping in various Italien huts on the way. Here’s an example of program for this tour:

Day 1

Starting from Klein Matterhorn and ascent of Breithorn before walking down to Ayas hut.

Day 2

Ascent of Castor and Pollux then staying in Quintino Sella hut.

Day 3

Climbing the Lyskamm staying in Gniffetti hut.

Day 4

Peak bagging day with numerous 4000m peaks such as Pyramide Vincent 4215m, COrno Nero 4321m, Ludwigshöhe 4341 and Parrot Spitze 4436. Staying at Margherita hut.

Day 5

Climbing Dufourspitze by the South/East ridge via Zumsteinspitze 4563m. Descending the West ridge and staying at the Monte Rosa hutte.

Day 6

Descending from Monte Rosa hutte down to Zermatt.

We are happy to arrange Dufourspitze climb and the Spaghetti tour from mid June to mid September. 

Check if we have this activity already planned in the booking calendar, if not make a request and we will get back to you soon.

LEVEL REQUIRED

Excellent fitness. Previous experience of alpine climbing.

GUIDE / CLIENT RATIO

Max 1:2. For travers of Lyskamm 1:1

LENGTH

Minimum 3days

PERIOD

Mid June to mid September

ASSURANCE

The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.

PRICE 3DAY PROGRAM

1 client from 760 CHF/day
2 clients from 900 CHF/day
For extended programs please contact us for further information.

NOTE

Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.).
The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.

Guide fee is depending on
  • Type of activity and where
  • Course seriousness and difficulty
  • Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
  • If going alone or in a bigger group
  • If booking a single day or several days
  • High season or low season

Dufourspitze EQUIPMENT LIST

Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions and choice of  route. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.

TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT

Crampons, harness, ice-axe, helmet, mountain boots, trekking poles.

OTHER EQUIPMENT
  • Backpack 30 liters
  • Head torch & spare batteries
  • Warm hat & sunhat
  • Warm jacket
  • Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
  • Jacket (wind and waterproof)
  • Trousers (wind and waterproof)
  • Gaiters
  • Thin and warm gloves
  • Ski-googles and sunglasses

  • Water bottle 1 liter
  • Thermos
  • Snacks, Bars
  • Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
  • Sunscreen
  • Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
  • Sleeping sheet for the huts