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Tobias Granath

Advanced techniques & Self Rescue

Central Switzerland

This course is for you who want to develop your rock climbing skills and become independent on long multi-pitch routes. 

During four days we climb long routes together and spend lots of time on self rescue training. 

  • Content
  • When
  • Info
  • Equipment

Content

The course teach the participant to manage a set of techniques to safely and effectively manage complex rescue situation in vertical rock terrain. Further more during the course we will go through various relevant techniques for multi-pitch climbing. After the course the participant will be able to manage following techniques and situations:

  • Escaping the system from loaded belay
  • Prusik climbing
  • Counter weight rappel and multiple rappels with victim
  • Second rescues and leader rescues
  • Pulley systems
  • Anchor systems, belay stance management
  • Climbing with half-rope
  • Multiple rappels
  • Alpine techniques; running belays, short-roping, multi-pitch

Among many other things, this course follows the norms set up by Swedish Climbing Federation regarding to the content of Advanced Rock climbing Course(2days) and Self-Rescue Course(2days).

Program

Central Switzerland has many different areas for high quality granite rock-climbing. Sustenpass, Furkapass, Ticino to name a few. This example program contains a four day long-weekend in Göschenertal. Its possible to stay at Hotel Hoheneck in Engelberg the day before and after the course.

Day 1

Walking up to Bergseehütte, 2370m. Working on rope management, multi-pitch procedurs and basic rescue technics on a nearby Klettergarten. Spending the night at Bergseehütte.

Day 2

Multi-pitch climbing on 300m high south face of Bergseeschijn, 2815m. Lunch at the hütte and working on rescue scenarios on the afternoon. Staying the night at Bergseehütte.

Day 3

After breakfast we go down to the parking and drive a couple of kilometers down the valley. From the parking we walk up 2hours to the Salbithütte. This area around the hut is one of the most famous granite paradises in the alps. We climbing the 8 pitches on the Zahn, 2728m. In the evening we discuss the program for next day. Depending on what we have to work on and what you will do we decide the program.

Day 4

Either we climb a long multi-pitch route or working on rescue scenarios.  Travel back to Engelberg in the afternoon.

We are happy to arrange this course all days during the week from May until late Oktober.

Please make a request about what, when and where and we will get back to you soon.

Level required

This course requires fundamental rock climbing skills and previous experience of lead climbing singel pitches on natural protection grade 4+. If you don’t have the experience required, for example if you are a sport climber, its possible to ad training days before the course.

Guide/Client ratio

1:2 For bigger groups please contact us.

Length

4days

Period

May-Oktober

Travel

Central alps Switzerland. Easy travel with train or car from Zürich.

Assurance

The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.

Price 4 day program

1300CHF/person

Note

Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.)

Guide fee depends on
  • Type of activity and where
  • Course seriousness and difficulty
  • Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
  • If going alone or in a bigger group
  • If booking a single day or several days
  • High season or low season

The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.

Rock climbing equipment list

Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.

Technical Equipment

Crampons, harness, ice-axe, helmet, mountain boots. This equipment might not be necessary if stay at low altitude areas.

Other Equipment
  • Climbing shoes, approach shoes & chalk bag
  • Backpack 25 liters
  • Headlamp & spare batteries
  • Warm hat & sunhat
  • Warm jacket
  • Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
  • Jacket (wind and waterproof)
  • Trousers (wind and waterproof)
  • Gaiters, ankle high
  • Thin and warm gloves
  • Sunglasses

  • Water bottle 1 liter
  • Snacks, Bars
  • Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
  • Sunscreen
  • Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
  • Sleeping sheet for the huts