Jakob Edholm

Aiguille Verte, Couturier Couloir


“Queen of the mountains, most beautiful of the beautiful” – Henri Isselin “It is on Verte you become a mountaineer” – Gaston Rebuffat

There are many different great routes on Aiguille Verte. The standard route from the North side is the Couturier couloir. An impressive 1000m snow and ice couloir.

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Here is a suggested four day program for climbing Aiguille Verte by the North face with three training climbs including a ascent of Tour Ronde by its North face. The climb itself takes two days. The program can be adjusted to fit individual needs.


Preparing equipment and packing. Training day on Aiguille du Midi, 3842m. We climb one of the ice/mixed classics on Triangle du Tacul or below Aiguille du Midi station, repelling down from the footbridge. We spend the night at Cosmiques hut.


Climbing the North face of Tour Ronde, 3792m. A very good preparation climb and technically the same grading as Couturier.

Day 3

Climbing Petite Aiguille Verte 3512m, starting from Grands Montets lift station. After the climb we ski to Argentière hut and spend the night there.

Day 4

Big day on Verte. The climbing takes about 4-5hours from bergschrund to summit. We descend the Whymper couloir on the South side, ending up on Valle Blanche and Chamonix later the same day.

Extended Program

Together we discuss the need for extra days before or after the ascent of Aiguille Verte. Ad training and acclimatization days before the ascent or extra weather days for the summit. The ascent of Aiguille Verte can also be combined with other great climbs such as:

  • Aiguille de Talèfre, 3730m
  • Aiguille du Chardonnet, 3824m
  • Aiguille Verte, 4122m
  • Les Droites, 4001m

For skilled and experienced ski-mountaineers we bring the skis for easier approaches and excitement skiing.

We are happy to climb this kind of North faces from October to beginning of June. 

Check if we have this activity already planned in the booking calendar, if not make a request and we will get back to you soon!

Level required

Excellent fitness. Very comfortable on steep ice, grade 4. Previous experience from ice and winter climbs.

Guide/Client ratio

Max 1:1


2days for the summit itself. For experiences climbers we suggest a 4days program with three training days before the summit day.


From October to beginning of June.


The client needs a travel and accident insurance for the implementation of this activity.


Two day program: 1300CHF
Four day program: 2500CHF

For extended programs please contact us for further information.


Expenses for the guide is not included in the daily fee(lifts, travel costs, lodging etc.)

Guide fee is depending on
  • Type of activity and where
  • Course seriousness and difficulty
  • Course length (day tour or bivinights included)
  • If going alone or in a bigger group
  • If booking a single day or several days
  • High season or low season

The price is based on the recommended daily fee by the Swiss Bergführerverband, SBV.

Aiguille Verte equipment list

Below is a recommended checklist that may change depending on conditions. Please contact us if you need to rent anything of the list below.

Technical Equipment

Technical crampons, harness, two technical ice-axes, helmet, winter mountain boots

Other Equipment
  • Backpack 35 liters
  • Head torch & spare batteries
  • Warm hat and balaclava
  • Warm jacket
  • Underlayer, mid layer, extra socks
  • Jacket (wind and waterproof)
  • Trousers (wind and waterproof)
  • Gaiters
  • Thin and warm gloves
  • Sunglasses

  • Water bottle 1 liter
  • Thermos
  • Snacks, Bars
  • Blister kit: Including Compeed blister plasters and elastoplast or similar
  • Sunscreen
  • Earplugs: If you sleep together in the dormitory at the mountain station and there is a lot of movement.
  • Sleeping sheet for the huts